Official Creality 3D Printer Ender 3 Upgraded Silent Board Motherboard V4.2.7 with TMC2225 Driver Marlin 2.0.1 for Ender 3/ Ender 3 V2/ Ender 3 Pro/Ender 3 Max/Ender 3 Neo/3 V2 Neo/3 Max Neo

Easy install and works great, the difference in how silent it is is amazing! You can only hear the fans now, none of the stepper motors.

I got this board installed easily enough on my (1st generation) Ender 3 Pro by following some online video tutorials. The biggest challenge was the old board had all of the connectors hot-glued, so I had to peel off a lot of glue to release the connectors from the old board. However, once that was done, this was fairly straightforward to install.I was also installing a BL touch at the same time, and I wasn't sure if the firmware on the board would support it out of the box, so I downloaded the appropriate code from the Creality website. The most current code I could find on their website for this V4.2.7 board (that supported BL touch) was Marlin V2.0.6 (under the basic Ender 3 section, not the Ender 3 Pro section).The only odd thing I've noticed is that when it's auto-leveling with the BL Touch, this board intermittently turns off the hot end, so it cools while leveling, and then you get a thermal error about 10 seconds into the print because the nozzle is too cold. I have searched online for an answer to this, and haven't found the "right" answer (to keep the hot end turned on during leveling), but did find a work around by adding an M109 command to my startup Gcode, to force the hot end to heat up again. I wish Creality kept their code more current, so hopefully this helps you if you encounter this problem with this board.Overall, I love this board. It's super silent, and the only noise is the fan. Rarely you can hear a bit of stepper noise (just barely) for a moment when it's printing an interesting curve, but that's it. Even with Creality's outdated firmware, I'm giving this 5 stars.

Went in with no issues. Did the firmware update, had to do the Hot End PID calibrations, reset all the E-Steps, and since I also added a probe, I needed to set up the X and Y offsets. Worked awesome. Quiet and prints look a lot smoother. This is something that should be updated on an old printer like my Ender 3 V1. The prints I'm getting now are as good as my new Ender 3 V3 Plus.

The media could not be loaded. The bottom line. This board DEFINITELY quiets down your Ender printer, if you have one of the original 8-bit, non-silent mainboards. Details of my experience follow.First off, you need to do the research on your printer. Follow instructions to take off the cover and get a look at the mainboard. Mine was V1.1.4 which means it's an older 8-bit board, using the cheap, non-silent stepper motor drivers. If you want to replace the mainboard, you're going to need to take this cover off, so you might as well do it and get a look under the hood. (I uploaded a picture of my old board.) The models listed show what printers this board works on, but newer versions of some of these printers already come with a newer, 32-bit board, so you'll want to make sure you need to spend the $$ first.Secondly, the physical installation of the board is pretty easy. Your printer should have come with all the little hex keys you need, and you really want to make SURE that you know where everything plugs in. On my ender 3 pro, the cables for the X, Y, and Z stop switch, as well as the cables for the X, Y, Z, and E motor ports are all labeled, and can only go one place. It's the thermistors (temp sensors) for the heated bed and the extruder nozzle that look exactly the same. Do yourself a favor and label them left and right or something. If you don't you might get them reversed, which will mean you'll need to open up your printer and switch them again later. I reversed them. Didn't blow anything up, but when the bed is heating, and the nozzle is registering the temp increase, I knew I'd screwed up.Nextly, this board came with an OLD firmware. SO ANNOYING, because everyone said it SHOULD come with a new one. It didn't. When I downloaded the firmware for the 4.2.7 board from Creality's website, ***it turned all my menus to CHINESE!*** So get this...I literally had to download the source code and build the latest bugfix release of Marlin's firmware myself using Visual Studio Code, and Marlin's Auto Build Marlin plugin with the help of some YouTube videos. In addition, Octoprint didn't like that the HOST_ACTION_COMMANDS option wasn't enabled, so then I had to make that change in the source code and recompile. Then I flashed the firmware to my printer, which is thankfully easy to do with the new board's bootloader. Just drop the .BIN file on the SD card, and boot up the printer. (A note, if you get an EEPROM initialization warning: Take the SD card out when you get the EEPROM warning, power cycle the printer, select RESET, and you'll be in business after a single annoying beep. You won't get it again.)If this all sounds like a hassle, it really is. I was a programmer for a couple years, and work in IT, so this wasn't the end of the world for me. I could figure it out. However, if you're a hobbyist with no coding experience, and don't want to bother with all of this, then you might want to consider paying a 3d printer nerd near you to help you figure this out. Because while I knocked off a star for this hassle.......IT REALLY WAS WORTH IT! My printer is in my bedroom. My wife has absolutely nixed overnight prints because with the stock board, the printer was just so. darn. LOUD. I can't blame her. But after this board install, my printer's loudest feature is the fans, which is really just white noise. The motors are SO DARN QUIET. I can barely hear them sitting a foot away. It sounds hard to believe, I know. I uploaded a video and I hope you can hear the difference, but regardless trust me, the difference is night and day. When looking at this upgrade, I wondered if I was flushing my money down the toilet, but aside from the hassle that the upgrade and firmware compiling was, I am SO happy I did this.Your mileage may vary when it comes to the firmware. Maybe by the time you get to reading this review, Creality will make it more obvious which printer firmware you need, but for the Ender 3 Pro, most of the firmwares were for options with auto-leveling sensors, or filament runout sensors, or whatever. When I flashed the only one that looked promising with the 4.2.7 board revision on it, it turned everything to Chinese. I spent hours on this, and I can imagine someone with no coding experience might spend even longer. You just need to be aware of the possibility of having to do some work.But it really is worth it. So quiet now!

This thing is great! It fixed my printer AND it is incredibly quiet! I couldn't believe how quiet it has been. Just make sure to get the correct firmware.

Well now Ive upgraded just about everything on my ender 3 because of this board. Good money grab there Creality! Anyway, I changed the board to this one from 422, kept getting runaway, changed the entire hot end, still getting runaway, went to marlin updated firmware, got rid of the runaway, but the cr touch wouldnt level, tried different firmware, now bed heat error. Changed hotplate, still hot bed error, try different firmware again, after quite a few different flavors I got one that doesnt give heat errors but....... it lockes up while printing which makes it impossible to fine tune. It locks up as if its busy thinking, then it unfreezes and jumps menus. All I want is for it to work.. going to return and toss 4.2.2 back in and see what I can do. I like a challenge but this is ridiculous!